Quoted from Mark Twight's Kiss or Kill, in the author's note to
"I hurt, therefore I am".

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Through the distorted lens of youthful determination, these are
simply problems to be resolved by more scientific training,
improved weather forecasting, longer acclimatization, or better
psychic connection to the mountain environment. The underlying
suggestion posed by all resolutions is one of being in control,
which, I realize now, is not at all the case. I think we may
train ourselves to be as adaptable as possible, to respond
appropriately in each situation, but the idea of controlling the
outcome or steering events as they occur must be relinquished.
Chaos rules it all.
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