Glacial Erratics

I've had occasion over the last several months to run a completely unscientific comparison of my climbing performance in my old favorites, Anasazi Velcro sized down to a pleasant pain, and a pair of Moccasyms that fit in all day comfort sort of way. (Five.Ten in their infinite wisdom make it impossible to link directly to shoes.) Nothing surprising but here are my thoughts:    (PUQ)

On real rock, climbing routes, for a day out of moderate climbing in the Red River Gorge, Vantage and Exit 38 in Washington, and (unfortunately just two routes) in the valley at Yosemite the Moccasyms do a fine job. The smear so very nice.    (PUR)

In the gym, bouldering on plastic, the Moccasyms start to show their weaknesses. That they fit comfortably means the heel cup is insufficiently secure on my sweaty feet to handle heel hooks and otherwise have the kind of precision required. The Anasazis, as you might expect, feel more precise. I've fallen off a problem a few times in the Moccasyms, switched to the Anasazis and walked up.    (PUS)

Part of this is psychological. I have an affinity for the somewhat painful aspects of the Anasazi that boosts my confidence in some sick and twisted way. It's like tiger balm on the forehead to help with studying: I'm more aware of my feet.    (PUT)

• Update*: In response to the comment, "how are the anasazis in cracks?" No good for me, because I wear them so tightly. My toe knuckles are very high compares to the meat of my foot, so when I jam it hurts. Moccasyms good in crack.    (Q6Y)